© by Christian Westphal
Christian Westphal’s Spring/Summer 2011 menswear collection is a looser, a little more colorful and a lot more casual chic than the previous collection, but his formula for quirky cuts is basically unchanged. After all, even the most die-hard urban warrior needs a break from black once in a while.
After a couple of seasons of citified dressing, collectors of Westphal may well be pining for his more eclectic, but wearable pieces. If so, they will find plenty of them: washed out coats, soft boxy jackets, wrapped pants and shorts, and jersey that look as if they have been sourced from a trip around the markets of 19th century America.
Westphal explains he had been thinking about recasting basics, and working on a kind of primitive collage concept inspired by a visit to the 19th century Wild West. But unlike the previous collection, with its bohemian layer on layer vibe, this season is not about an overarching theme or look: It is about giving a reason to shop, and as such, there are many arguments here for a guy to unfreeze his AmEx.
New fabrics are crushed techno taffeta, draped jersey, and glove leather-like cotton, and a starched looking white poplin shirt with origami-like folds round the neck. You will also find a pair of trompe-l'oeil sequined shirts, with their graphic shapes evoking a nighttime skyline. The jeans are no longer artfully destroyed and stained but the cooperation with the Okayama denim producers have outcomed camouflage patch work jeans with rivets in antique gold and brass, however with a flicker of irony. Patching together Sergio Leone picture »The Good, The Bad and The Ugly«, the collection moves from complex jersey tanks with knots and spray dye and knit with a kind of moon-glow lightness. In the collage of elements there are recycled fabrics, natural-looking hemp weaves and a sidelong tribalism in the urban-warrior outerwear and accessories.
The nature-versus-man-concept is for Spring/Summer 2011 a meld of futuristic technique and art craftsmanship.
CHRISTIAN WESTPHAL Website
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